Tani Brand Stitches & Embroidery

ORIGINS OF CHIKANKARI

There are some speculations though, about the origin of Chikankari embroidery. The word ‘Chikan’ is derived from the Persian ‘chikin’ or ‘chikeen,’ meaning beautifully embroidered fabric. One set of narratives attribute the name to a distorted version of ‘chikeen’/’siquin’ – a coin worth four rupaiyya, the fees paid by The Mughal Empress Nur Jahan to Persian artisans for the first embroidery. Some other accounts trace the origins of Chikankari to East Bengal where the word means ‘fine’ or ‘delicate.’ Of course, there are references to embroidery similar to chikan work in India as early as 3rd century B.C.

Nur Jahan is said to have brought in artisans from a village in Persia’s Koh Mehr province -these artists were entrusted with the responsibility of sharing their knowledge with Awadh families. Embroidery was done on undyed white shazaada cotton or Dhaka ki mulmul, which was sourced from the Mughal Empire’s eastern ends. Fabric lengths were mostly utilised for dupattas at the time. As the artisans, mostly women in purdah, began to find a regular source of income, the skills and secrets were passed down generations. Even now, around 90% of Chikankari work is executed by women.

Chikankari is a three-step procedure of block printing, embroidery, and washing out. Chikankari, a traditional form of embroidery from Lucknow, India, is renowned for its intricate and delicate needlework. The art form features various stitches, each contributing to its unique aesthetic. Here are some of the primary stitches used in Chikankari:

1. Aari - or Ari: This is a type of needle used in Chikankari, and the stitch created with it is known for its delicate, free-flowing lines. The Aari stitch is often used for creating fine outlines and patterns.

Bakhiya - or Bakhya: This stitch involves filling in areas with small, closely spaced stitches to create a solid, textured look. It’s often used to outline or emphasize parts of a design. Bakhiya, is a foundational stitch in Chikankari embroidery.

Phanda - or Fanda: This stitch is similar to a French knot and is used to create small, round motifs. It adds a textured, three-dimensional effect to the embroidery.

Tari (Tairi)- Tari, or Tairi, is a simple yet versatile stitch used for creating parallel lines and geometric patterns. It is valued for its clean, organized appearance and ease of execution. Tari is often employed to create borders, outlines, and structured patterns within Chikankari embroidery.

Jali (Jaali)-Jali, or Jaali, is known for its intricate, net-like patterns. This stitch creates an open, lacy effect that adds a delicate and airy quality to the embroidery. The Jali stitch involves stitching small, evenly spaced stitches to form a grid or mesh pattern.

Murri (Murgi)-Murri, or Murgi, is a stitch that forms small, raised bumps or knots on the fabric. This stitch adds a three-dimensional texture, providing a tactile and visual contrast to the embroidery. Murri is commonly used in floral and natural designs to represent elements such as petals, seeds, or buds. Its raised texture adds depth and dimension to the embroidery.

Each of these stitches contributes to the rich, textured beauty of Chikankari embroidery, allowing for a diverse range of patterns and effects that showcase the skill and artistry of the craft.

Chikankari Stitches

Credit-vritti designs

ORIGINS

OF ZARDOZI

Zardozi is a traditional form of Indian embroidery that originated during the Mughal era and is known for its opulent, intricate designs. The term "zardozi" derives from Persian words meaning "gold embroidery," reflecting the use of metallic threads in this lavish craft. Zardozi is typically used on rich fabrics such as silk, velvet, and satin, and is often employed in bridal wear, ceremonial garments, and luxury textiles.

Characteristics of Zardozi

Materials: Zardozi uses metallic threads, including gold, silver, and copper, which are often combined with silk threads. The embroidery can also incorporate beads, sequins, pearls, and gemstones to enhance its richness and texture.

Techniques: The technique involves stitching with a needle and metallic thread to create elaborate patterns and motifs. The designs are often inspired by nature, including floral patterns, paisleys, and intricate geometric shapes.

Zardozi embroidery is renowned for its elaborate and luxurious designs, often featuring metallic threads and embellishments. Here’s a detailed look at some of the key stitches used in Zardozi embroidery, each contributing to the intricate and opulent nature of the craft:

1. Satin Stitch- Satin Stitch is a fundamental embroidery stitch used in Zardozi to create solid, smooth surfaces.

2.Couching- Couching involves laying down a thread or metallic cord on the fabric and securing it with smaller stitches. Couching is used to create bold lines and shapes, and to add texture and dimension to the embroidery. It is ideal for outlining designs and creating intricate patterns with metallic threads.

3. Chain Stitch-Chain Stitch is a decorative stitch that forms a series of interlocking loops. In Zardozi, it can be used to create detailed outlines and textured effects.

4. French Knot (Phanda)-French Knot, or Phanda in Zardozi, is a raised stitch that adds a three-dimensional effect. The size and prominence of the knot depend on the number of wraps. French Knots are used to add texture and detail, such as creating flower centers, embellishments, or intricate patterns. They provide a tactile quality to the embroidery.

5. Kundanj Work-Kundanj Work involves setting decorative elements, like stones or gems, into the embroidery. It is commonly used in bridal and ceremonial garments to create striking, luxurious effects.

6. Pittan Work-Pittan-Pittans are small pieces of metal that are sewn onto the fabric, often in decorative patterns. The surrounding area is embroidered to enhance the overall effect.

7. Kashmiri Stitch- This stitch involves creating delicate designs with a combination of metallic and silk threads. It often includes elements like floral motifs and paisley patterns. Kashmiri Stitch is used for creating highly detailed and refined embroidery, adding elegance and sophistication to the design.

8. Beadwork- Beads are sewn onto the fabric alongside metallic threads in patterns or clusters. They can be used to enhance specific areas or create decorative elements

9. Sequins-Sequins are small, shiny discs used to add a reflective quality to the embroidery. Sequins are sewn onto the fabric in various patterns or scattered arrangements. They can be combined with metallic threads and other embellishments for added effect. Sequins enhance the visual appeal of the embroidery by adding sparkle and shine, ideal for festive and celebratory attire.

10. Zardozi Stitch- This stitch can include techniques like satin stitching with metallic threads, couching metallic cords, or creating detailed patterns with thread. The Zardozi Stitch is used to cover large areas or create bold patterns, contributing to the rich and textured appearance of the embroidery. Each of these stitches contributes to the opulence and intricacy of Zardozi embroidery, showcasing its luxurious and detailed craftsmanship. The combination of metallic threads, beads, sequins, and elaborate stitching techniques results in rich, textured designs that are highly valued in traditional and high-fashion garments.